1/23/2006 Day 5: Mangalore

I take that back about the cell phones--people started turning them on as we descended. I heard messge beeps going off right and left.

Mangalore was nice and toasty when we landed. The airport was small with one baggage claim carousel and a crowd of people around it. Yeah, I was definitely in Southern Indian. Thankfully, my suitcase is in one piece although the left side's wheel is a little caved in. I think it will hold out. I collected my stuff and walked out. Father Ben was there with a Star Spangled Banner baseball cap and a giant smile. He is a priest who oversaw a few churches close to where my mom and dad live in Montana--although, he is originally from India. He had his brother-in-law, Larry, and nephew, Eril with him. Fr. Ben style, he took me to a coconut stand so I could have a drink straight out of a fresh coconut. The man at the stand had a machete like knife in his hand and tossed and chopped the top of the coconut open. He then inserted a straw and gave it to Fr. Ben to give to me. SO REFRESHING!

They brought me back to Fr. Ben's house. He had it built specifically in mind that he'd have many guests. Already, there were two gentleman from Plentywood, MT staying. They are traversing through from Goa into Southern Kerala. One of them had just spent a couple of months in Thailand.

I sat and watched cricket, then Eril's brother, Edril, came in and the three of us with their father headed to the beach. It was absolutely beautiful! The water was as warm as bathwater. and the sun was on it's way down. Eril, Edril and I walked trying to catch sand crabs. After the sun set, we went back so we could freshen up before dinner.

Fr. Ben LOVES being a host. Afer I had arrived, his sister and the girl that helps out at Fr. Ben's , Mary, made tea. Fr. Ben had a cake that the three guests sliced as our hosts sang "Happy Welcome to You" with the birthday song tune. Then he proceeded to force us to eat more than we could.

Same thing for dinner. Dinner was late but, the party started with another priest from Canada stopping by. Then, Eril, Edril and Larry came over and we had drinks and chatted. The two Marys (Edril and Eril's mother's name is Mary also) cooked up an amazing feast. Fish curry, prawns and okra. I took a little at first. I had quite a few Goan sausages while drinking before dinner but, I immediately popped up for a second plate. I shoulnd't have eatn so much because then came the apples--of course, I couldn't get away with eating just one--then a dessert piece which I managed to force down half. I was near bursting.

We all went to the living room and caught the last half of the Manchester United/Liverpool game. I was starting to fall asleep from all the food.

I did fall asleep on my bed while I tried to force myself to get ready for bed. But, I woke up close to 1am, stumbled out, got my teeth brushed and fell asleep.

Today is going to be jam packed--big itinerary that Fr. Ben set up.


*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
If you are travelling and have the opportunity to stay with people native to the area, DO IT! There is not a better experience of immersing yourself in the Indian culture and their generosity. Fr. Ben is like most Indians in being an excellent host and providing a gigantic spread of food. Although, I will say that as a host, he goes even above Indian standards in making sure his guests are comfortable, entertained, and fed. To not eat is offensive and try to be polite as your hosts try to ply you with third and fourth helpings of food. I found myself repeatedly saying I'm stuffed as one of my many hosts would hover over with a spoonful of rice or curries. Food is very important and Indians take pride in their flavorful dishes. They absolutely LOVE foreigners that adore their food and will try to make you fat in cooking non-stop. Take note that an authentic breakfast, lunch and dinner are well balanced with a spread of rice, breads, vegetarian and non-vegetarian curries. Usually fruit is eaten after a meal and in between and don't forget tea time. In Southern India, the foods are complex and many curries will accompany your plate of rice and breads. Eating with your hands is an art and done deftly--it can actually be a lot harder than it looks! If you have the chance to stay with people from India, know that you will be eating, constantly.

1/22/2006 Day 4: Mangalore

I'm not sure if the hotel clerks thought it was funny that I brought them New York City t-shirts or grateful or insulted. It was a hard read. I don't think anyone has given them anything before (other than money which I left a tip for them before I left) so I think they were just surprised.

I had a deuce of a time packing this morning. I hope my large suitcase is intact when I get to Mangalore. I got a taxi this time to the airport after breakfast. Rs. 250, it cost so I gave him Rs. 300. A steal in my book, considering that it amounted to about $4.50.

At Delhi airport, it was slightly chaotic. Jet Airways is great. I mean, really great service. The check in part is the part that is chaotic. Then there is security for everyone. I loaded my stuff up on the conveyor belt and went to the women's curtained off area to get the detector swept over my body. It always makes me think of going to a gigantic niteclub in New York City. I get frisked there too, but it's by a guy and in front of everyone sans curtain.

Of course, my carry-on, the one that was difficult to close, set something off and I had to open it. Indian airport security is really serious and thorough. Anything and everything that sets off an alarm gets the rubber glove search through. I managed to pry my carry-on open and have a bunch of my stuff fly out. As I darted pell mell to gather them, the guard started the check. Iforgot I had disposable cameras in there. He'd asked me if I had any cameras before I opened it up. I said no. I opened up my soap box for him, watched as he studied my ipod charger and video camera charger. Then, it was on to the more serious stuff. He opened my makeup bag and riffled through. My eyelash curler came out and he gave them a squeeze. My box of O. B.'s were next. The box was opened and he extended a finger and probed the 18 tampons in the box. I was unfortunate enough to have my period start early this week or else it would have been 20 he could have fingered.

I don't mind the thorough security checks. Trust me, I like that they go in depth rather through bored routine.

I had a layover in Mumbai airport. the airport is very nice. I think I like the Mumbai vibe better than the Delhi vibe. It's a little more relaxed. Maybe it just seemed so because I was with friends of the family in Mumbai before but, I just wasn't really fond of Delhi.

I had to go through security AGAIN at Mumbai. The staff was more personable than Delhi airport. As I went through the female check, the girl wished me a nice day. It was also a girl who checked my sensor alerting carry-on. But, when she got to my makeup bag, she pulled out the eyelash curler, grinned, and said, "Eyelash curler." I laughed.

I put everything back in order and she came up and asked if my eyelashes were real. The person making sure that everybody had the security check stamp on their boading pass and bags was also female and said she wanted to know as well. I told them I was born with my lashes but, then proceeded to give a makeup demo to show them how I did my eyes. The girl checked me through as they both told me they loved my makeup and I headed to the gate after I held up a bunch of people with the demo.

At least on this leg of the flight there isn't any amazing annoying asshole that insists on using a cellphone. The first leg from Delhi, the guy in the seat ahead of me and to the right wouldn't turn it off when the doors closed. Then they turned it on again and started using it during the flight. After a third time, the flight attendant threatened it was the last warning and his cell phone would be taken away. The first annoying guy was just an oblivious ass. He also tried to plow through the aisle after we landed to get out the door first. We were in the middle of the plane. I was relieved to see he wasn't on this leg of the flight. The flight attendants had the patience of saints.



*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
A great way to get around India is by plane. The great thing about the domestic airlines is they have special packages where you pay one price and can fly to many places within two weeks or if you buy four legs, it is $400--coupon prices in bulk etc. They make it easy to fly and not hurt the wallet TOO much. Indians do not mess around with security so be prepared to answer some questions and get your stuffed opened. I got pulled to the 'backroom' for a curly hair hair drier at 17 years old. I was scared! Some of the domestics airlines are: Indian Airlines, Jet Airways and Kingfisher (the last is he newest and I've heard has even more amazing service than Jet Airways)

1/22/2006 Day 3 Continued: Agra

Lunch was nothing amazing. We went to the restaurant, which I'm sure has an agreement with the tour company. There were two kids dancing outside. I hate watching little kids put to work. One feels pretty helpless.

After lunch, we went to a place that make the marble inlays. Every step and every tool is done exactly as they did to build the Taj and the workers are direct descendents of the artisans and constructors of the Taj Mahal. I bought a chess board and jewelry box. I wanted to go crazy but, the stuff was heavy and pricier than I wanted to spend on the trip. Although, they will pack and ship anywhere in the world. The marble is the same marble as the Taj Mahal so you can shine a light through the marble and and you can see it on the other end. This is why the Taj looks pink at sunset and blue on a full moon. Each item takes at least a month (if not more) to make and they are infinitely cheaper than what it would cost if I were to buy something like that at home. One of a kind stuff. Not the trinkets that Rameesh was pushing us to pay. The store was government run so, they were not allowed to badger us and the prices were fixed.

Afterwards, it was Agra Fort. Seventy-Five percent of Agra Fort is closed because the Indian Army occupies it. There is no way we'd have the time to tour the whole thing even if we had a full day. The place was HUGE! This is just a small area of the entrance into the fort. This was the palace of the Moguls. Their stamp is all over the place but, Akbhar and Shah Jahan had a great respect for other religions and incorporated their works in various places. From Agra Fort, there is a view of the Taj Mahal.
Shah Jahan spent the last years of his life under house arrest here by his youngest son who overthrew him, killed twelve of his brothers and sisters and left one to care for his father in his final years.

I was dead tired. We stopped for tea where we had breakfast earlier that day and I didn't even want to get out. I think the guys were pissed that we didn't order anything to eat.

I tipped our guide Rs. 200 and our driver was kind enough to drop me at the hotel. I gave him Rs. 50. Our guide didn't even ask for a tip. Trust me, we were throwing money at him. He did take us to a shopping place in the end but, I think it was almost an obligation. Besides, most of the people on the tour, this was their only free day to get something because they were in Delhi on business. I got back to my room, gave out t-shirts to the staff and fell dead asleep.


*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
When travelling around, especially on a long day trip like this, go to the bathroom when you can. If the bathroom is half decent, use it! You don't know where your next pee break is or what the state of the bathroom will be like. On our guided tour, we had enough stops. Breakfast had a relatively clean, Western style facilites as did our lunch place and then at nite we were back to where had breakfast. I usually carry anti-bacterial lotion with me and always have tissues. Living in New York, I tend to be a bit freaky when it comes to keeping my hands clean. Don't be alarmed if you walk into a stall and there is water all over the place--even if it's a Western style toilet. Indians use water to 'wipe' and use their left hand to do it. Water is used to flush everything down. Toilet paper might not be available. Which is why Indians always eat with their right hand and not their left.

1/22/2006 Day 3: Agra

Agra tour was amazing! After our late start, we got away towards Agra. We picked up three more passengers--two Russians and a man from Toronto.

Our guide met us at Akbhar's Tomb. Akbhar was the grandfather of Shah Jahan-the builder of the Taj Mahal. The place is also a preserve. Monkeys were crawling around all over the place and there were herds of deer grazing everywhere. Our guide was a slight young man with a ready smile. He ended up being a fount of knowledge on all our sites and was helpful, personable, and witty. He said his name once, but, I couldn't hear because I was in the back of the bus. One thing I've learned about the moghuls is that they were readers, mathematicians, and avid builders. It's amazing to think of life back then.

We couldn't take our bus all the way to the Taj Mahal. We had to change to a battery operated vehicle. The pollution lawas are pretty strict around the Taj. Anything that might mar the look and grounds of the site is prohibited. They are also very strict about what you are allowed to bring in. Food, cellphones, electronics of any sort (except for cameras) were not allowed. The place is immaculate. A sharp contrast to the streets of Agra. After we got our tickets, our booties (to put over our shoes as we walked around the Taj) and a bottle of water, it was off to security. Yes, these ladies were thorough. She was even nice enough to press hands intimately on my breasts and in my cleavage.

After feeling the need for a cold shower, our guide explained the gates and the buildings flanking the Taj Mahal. The moguls believed in symmetry--symmetry was a way of being close to God. I see a lot of sense in that. In most religions, at the core, there is a mention of balance. So, if one gate is built, there will be four total. There were buildings flanking the Taj Mahal On the left was a mosque, on the right, an empty one. Built for the sake of symmetry. This was true of all the Mogul sites we vistied--buildings built to keep symmetrical even if they weren't used.

I was allowed to take my video camera through the gate and stand on the dais. I was late in joining the group as they all took their pictures next to the Taj but, my tour guide took this one for me. Another guy kept snapping pictures while my guide took this one. In the end, the strange photographer tried to sell me the professionally finished photo but, my eyes were closed. When I told him my eyes were closed, he kept saying I was just looking down. As if I didn't know when my eyes were closed in a picture. I told him even if I was looking down, why would I want it--I still wouldn't want to show it to anyone or look at it myself.

The Taj Mahal is an absolutely stunning piece of work. To see the whole thing and to realize it's COMPLETELY composed of white marble is mind boggling. The inlay and carving all done by hand. Twenty-two years it took to build. Now, that's love. The only thing not symmetrical is Shah Jahan's tomb. It is out of symmetry with the rest of the site. Shah Jahan was going to build a black marble Taj directly across the river from the white Taj for himself. The clearing set for the black Taj can still be viewed across the river from the back of the Taj Mahal. His youngest son convinced the people that Shah Jahan was wasting their money and the money should go to the people. Shah Jahan was placed under house arrest for eight years before he died and was put to rest beside his wife--which makes the tomb out of symmetry. The money never went to the people.

The Moguls thought of everything. The Taj's towers are all leaning a little to te outside so in case any of them fall, no damage is done to the main building. The foundation is made of teak wood that are like shock absorbers in case there is an earthquake. The foundation also has 126 empty wells in case of a flood. Everything. I can't help but think that we have lost a lot of knowledge somewhere along the way.

I did have a moment of panic as we left the Taj Mahal. We lost two of our group. My first thought was, "Are we still going to get lunch?!" Selfish, I know but, I was starved! We ended up finding them outside the entrance gate. Right after they had bought t-shirts for a ridiculous amount of money (ridiculous for how much they were worth). Our tour guide told us to hold off till we got to a government run gift shop so we wouldn't get cheated. I was just relieved because we were headed to the restaurant.



*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
If you are not an Indian citizen, prices for admission to sites are quite a bit more than if you were. Still, coming from the U. S. it is not outrageous and at the Taj Mahal, one could exchange a $5 dollar bill as part of their admission. U. S. currency is welcome at a lot of sites as part of the exchange. There is usually an additional price for video cameras and digital camera usage. At the Taj and some other sites, I was not allowed to take my video camera past a certain point and was also charged to store the camera. Make sure you have enough smaller bills on you and in large quantities. These little fees add up.

1/21/2006 Day 2 Continued: Touring Delhi

We ended at mid-day at Janpath Hotel and had lunch. My appam and chicken curry weren't very good. But, during lunch, Anne and Paul convinced me to go for the second part of the tour. Rameesh acted like I was a thorn in his side and was obviously hassled. I had to pay Rs. 100 more than the regular full day deal and I finally told the guy, "F$%k it! Just give me the ticket!"

We went to Old Delhi. Before we acgtually hit Old Delhi, we stopped at a beautiful temple where we saw Rameesh get money in his hands from one of the security guards. Our suspicions were raised. Lakshmi Narayan Templewas beautiful and in the prayer area, Rameesh informed us that he was a philospher. This was after he snapped at Anne for not paying attention. He also snapped at Paul when Paul accidently shook his head 'no' to Rameesh's question of "Do you want to know why India is the greatest country in the world?" After berating Paul, he proceeded to boost his country even further by dissing all of ours and telling us of our countries' weaknesses. I walked out of the temple with Paul and Anne and asked, "Did we all just get insulted in a temple?"

We went to the Red Fort next. Ben, who had come for the last half of the tour, was from Australia and started chatting with us. We were all taking pictures in front of the Red Fort when these Indian guys came up to Anne, Paul and I and asked to take a picutre with us. We were completely confused. Ended up, they just wanted to have a picutre with the three of us with their camera. I think the novelty was Paul and Anne because of their tall fair looks. I just happened to be there with them. Ben got bombarded too. Paul and Ben were talking about it when Rameesh reprimanded them for talking while he was talking. He was the guide, he said, and when the guide talks, we all should listen.

The Red Fort was gigantic. I wanted more time there but, it was off to the bus again. The last stop was the place where Ghandi was cremated. Rajghat was incredibly peaceful and beautiful. Hard to believe how much chaos happened in the man's time with how peaceful this place was.

We got dropped off at the Janpath hotel. On the way back, Rameesh came up and gave a flowery speech about getting tipped. We were going to tip him anyway but, were put off by his blatant request. Anne was pissed because she didn't think he did much and only wanted to tip the driver. We ended up giving Rs. 50 each which he shared with the driver.

Anne had a date but, Ben, Paul and I decided to have a drink. I needed to hit a cash machine, desperately. Anne actually invited us to go along with her on her date. We declined. The three of us walked to a cash machine, every few fet getting an auto rickshaw driver asking us if we wanted a ride. After getting to the citibank, we strolled through Connaught Place. It reminded me of Times Square with how active it was in the evening. Down to the scent of stale human urine. We stopped to fiugre out where we were and these guys asked if we needed help. We said were looking for a bar. After turning up our noses at their suggestion of the TGI Fridays (that chain is everywhere!) they suggested the bar we were standing right under. Seems we had to look up to realize that there was one there.

The QTB wasn't far from my hotel. It was funky and chic. Over a couple of beers and sodas, we found out that Paul is a flight attendant and lived with his parnter in D. C. Ben worked in the travel industry and was going to school. He lived with his partner in Australia. It was a little bizarre how the three of us (actually four if you include Anne) worked in the travel industry. We were all bummed when the night ended. I was exhausted.

The guys, being gentlemanly to the core, walked me back to the hotel. At one point, we thought we were lost but, we were on the right track. I did get plowed into by to enebriated fellows walking down the street arm and arm. They were swaggering and stumbling all over the place and careened right into me. But, other than that, I got to my hotel room quite safely. Although, after calling Dan, I found out my mother had been frantically trying to reach me. I guess she was worried that my tour guide was a thief and kidnapper.


*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
Indians can be very curious and will openly stare at you or, like mentioned above, want to take pictures of you or even talk to you. If you are tall, blonde and foreign, your chances of getting stared at and openly talked about increase ten-fold. Although some of us may view this as rude, no harm is meant by it and it is not considered rude to openly stare. Paul had taken to staring right back. Some kids may tag along after you. And after a day of being at all the tourist sites, being bombarded by hockers, people wanting money, people trying to take advantage of your tourist status, one can be on guard. But, there are people that are helpful just to be helpful--such as the men in front of the QTB bar. Although, it can be hard to find when most of one's time is spent at tourist attractions/areas.

1/21/2006 Day 2 Coninued: Touring Delhi

I'm on a bus on my way to Agra. Of course, a late start. So far, we have a variety of people on this tour from French Canadian to Chinese.

Yesterday was long and tiring. I booked for a half day tour. As I boarded the bus, the man with glasses sat across the aisle from me. Ended up, he was from D. C. I was asking Paul, the American, a question when our tour guide barked at us to be quiet and pay attention. Rameeshe, the guide, we found out liked to bark at those of us who got out of line quite often. Think along the lines of an elementary school outing with a older, slightly bitter chaperone. Paul and I didn't talk again until the second site, Humyan's tomb, for fear of being reprimanded again. We ended up laughing our asses off about it later on.

Rameesh was a middle aged man, short with black hair that was starting to thin. Thick glasses perched upon a bulbous nose and he was bundled up in a scarf, sweaters and a jacket. As if he were battling November in Montana. He liked being in control and didn't like it when one of us lagged or had interest in something other than what he was presenting to us.

Our first stop was Jantar Mantar. The Maharaja Jai Singh II had built it in the 1700's for astronomical observations.

The gigantic red structures were definitely impressive tracking the sun, moon, change of season, etc. It was amazing!






At Humayun's Tomb, we were on our own.
Rameesh was feeling under the weather and wanted to lay on the seats in the back of the bus while we did our exploration. Humayun's Tomb is supposedly what the Taj Mahal is modeled after. Except that it is red and smaller. Humayun's widow had it built as a shrine to him. His tomb is the main one but, there are many other structures surrounding the main tomb that are other tombs. One thing I learned in Delhi and Agra is that long ago, if someone was madly in love with you and you happened to kick the bucket, they would build a huge architectural feat in your honor.

I got Paul to take a picture of me. As I was walking around with my video camera, exploring, a worker saw me walking through the sight and told me to go to a window to look outside. Then a second window. Keep in mind that I would have made my way over anyway--I just happened to be ambling along. But, he stuck his hand out for money and as harsh as this sounds, I didn't give hime any. He didn't show me anything or explain anything and it is exhausting to be bombarded constantly by people trying to sell/scam you.


The third site was the Lotus Temple. It was absolutely gorgeous and tranquil.
The white structure was in the form of a Lotus flower. Before we entered, we were lead to a place where we took off our shoes. We were allowed to take video and photo outside but, were not allowed to once we entered the site. No talking out loud inside. Strict instructions about conduct were given before we were let in. I did have enough time to copy one of the holy writings down: Should prosperity befall thee, rejoice not. And should abasement come upon thee, grieve not. For both shall pass away and be no more.--Baha'i llah

As I exited, I started talking to the Belgian girl, Anne. She was the girl who came rushing in last minute before the tour started. She was in India for a month then onto Nepal and Tibet. She had been all over the world. Taking month each year in whatever country. Fascinating.

BTW, I think I was the only person in the tour to make a Neverending Story reference. I thought the temple looked similar to the Empress' palace.

After the Lotus temple, we climbed back in the bus. Rameesh kept on babbling about a shopping center and how it was the best place to shop because even the locals shopped there, and on and on and on. I didn't understand why he was talking about it until the next thing we knew, we were pulling up in front of it. We were herded into the place and bombarded by sales people right and left. I was pissed. I hadn't wanted to shop and was dead tired. Anne told Paul and I that the tour guide makes a comission for bringing us into the store. Whether we buy anything or not. Paul had had it. His guide in Agra the day before kept taking him to shop after shop. He said it was draining. He was right.

So, the three of us opted to go outside and watch the children play across the road at an English Medium school. They were adorable. The headmistress invited us in and we took a tour of the school. Rameesh wasn't too happy.

But, before lunch, we had one more stop. Qutab Minar. The site has the highest tower in India. Rameesh was nice enough to give us the information that they had to close the tower to the public (to go inside) because of a stampede that killed tons of people. That and people throwing themselves off of it. But, even his gory background didn't ruin the moment.It was a little difficult to capture the whole tower in a pictures--especially up close.






*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
At the time, the exchange rate for money was Rs.44 to $1. Yes, the dollar goes very far and things are very cheap in India. But, that doesn't mean you should be fleeced! EVERYONE will try and get money from you as a tourist. Especially at the sites and when you are on a tour bus. Now, for an American, handing out a few rupees here and a few rupees there doesn't add up a whole lot but, but eventually, it will. It is also not a reason for someone to take advantage. Keep in mind that people trying to sell you stuff outside the attractions can usually be bought a government run gift shop or should be bargained down for at least half the price. Try and use some common sense if you choose to give out money.

1/20/2006 Day 2: Touring Delhi

I am completly exhausted but am compelled to talk about the day. We landed in Delhi late, due to an overcrowding of planes trying to land at the same time. Immigration always makes me sweat. Even though I haven't done anything wrong. Yet. I was sweating anyway. It was 60 degrees Farenheit outside and I was wearing two sweaters.

Of course, immigration, baggage, etc. all took forever but, the hotel driver waited for me. At 1am, after 15 hours of flying I was glad I had a car booked.

The hotel check-in was smooth. The staff was helpful and polite. My room is nice. I mean, I am critical since I work in the business. They need to clean/paint the walls because the scuff marks give the illuission of shabiness. Also, wiping down appliances is a must. But, can I say that the bed is really comfortable! I took a shower, talked to my mom (who had called anxiously about 5 times, the hotel staff told me) and proceeded to stay awake because of jet lag. Finally, I fell asleep. Just to wake two hours later on my own accord right before the alarm went off. Grrr....I could have used that extra five minutes. I brushed my teeth, refreshed and went up for my breakfast. Breakfast was really good. It was on the top floor of the hotel overlooking the smog ridden city. I left after asking the doorman for directions to the tour company and walked to my destination.

And got lost.

I knew I was close but, it was frustrating because I couldn't find it. I asked a couple of randm guys. They pointed. I even asked some police officers who didn't have a clue. I bumped into one of the first guys I had asked and he exclaimed, "You are not there yet?! It's right down there!" He pointed vaguely in a direction.

I stared to walk in the direction of his finger and then, an auto rickshaw driver pulled up. He knew exactly where I was going because he heard the first guy yelling and pointing. He even knew which tour I was taking. Scary. He said he would take me there for Rs. 5. I took him up on it. In the end, I only had 10 and he had no change. He told me not to worry about it--actually giving me the ride for free. Almost unheard of that he wasn't trying to cheat me. He offered to pick me up at the end of my tour and take me back to the hotel for Rs. 10. I agreed. Kinda. I hurried in and booked my half day tour for the day and Agra tour for the next day.

As I walked in, there was a single late thirtish looking man with glasses. I guessed he was American or English. There was a couple speaking together in Hebrew--the woman stared at me as I sat across from her. Another woman in Indian garb who looked European. Christine was her name and she was actually from Spain. And an Asian woman in a showstopping outfit. She had on a white Indian style outfit with her hair tucked under a white scarf. She had about a dozen bindis (those 'dots' that Indian women put on their foreheads) of different colors decorating her forehead in a peacock tail design with the focal point being between her eyebrows. She was wearing boots with cloggy soles. Later on in the day, when it warmed up (it was pretty chilly outside that morning!) she pulled out a huge floppy brimmed camoflauge hat and white gloves. By the way, she pulled the whole outfit off. Not many people could. She was from Korea and a teacher on holiday. More tomorrow about today. I am completely exhausted.


*INTERESTING OR UNINTERSTING FACT OR PASSING OBSERVATION OR MAYBE I'M SNIFFING GLUE*
When transporting from the airport to your destination in India, always, always, always be careful. One should go to the pre-paid taxi stand and pay for a taxi or have a private car with a reliable and reputable company (best done through your hotel if staying at one) waiting for you. Not only will people try to scam you if you do not do this, but it can be dangerous with incidents such as the driver taking his fare out to the middle of nowhere and four guys with knives taking all your things. My car the hotel booked for me was 20 U.S. dollars. Very expensive in India considering my taxi back to the airport was about $4. But, at 1am, after travelling for so long and being a single woman, I figured my well being was worth more than trying to save a few bucks.